Janez Jeglič was born today, 59 years ago (1961) in Tuhinj,Slovenia and died on Nuptse, 30th October 1997.
An exceptional climber, strong on all terrain and style, he teamed with the Karo, Knez and the other Slovenian stars in the climbing scene of '80.
He performed stunning climbs in Patagonia - Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Egger ; in Himalaya.
In the first years of '90 he performed free climbing and Ice climbing at the highest levels, until his last and fateful climb in 1997, teamed with Tomaz Humar, on the incredibly difficult and steep North West Face of Nuptse.
Here an excerpt of the tragic story that was followed step by step by Giampietro Verza, in radio connection with the Slovenian mountaineer, from the Pyramid of Everest.
"[..] . In the early hours of the Oct 31st, the team, determined to make a final attempt, quickly started gaining the difficult upper part of the wall again, now over the gigantic seracs of the lower glacial base, but from there exposed to hypoxia at altitudes above 7000 meters.
They continue in a "double-solo" style of ascent (simulclimbing) , untied and without rope, pushing the rhythms to the maximum possible. From the Pyramid the visibility on the upper part of the wall is excellent, when the mountaineers stop together we connected with the walkie talkies, with them and the base camp, taking assess of the situation full of unknowns for a new route on these wall dimensions, at these altitudes and for a group of only two climbers.
During the last connection under the top of the wall, at about 7600 meters, I propose to the climbers an interview via radio recorded by the Pyramid. Later, I am moved when Janez arrives at the end of the wall, on that ice and snow cone that connects the wall to the sky. The radio is silent[..] Then life reappears, I see Tomaz flow slowly to the top, stand above and disappear in turn. The radio finally breaks the silence I start the recording instinctively. It is not an exultant voice [..] becomes angry, and finally almost pleading, yielding.
Tomaz no longer finds Janez, he fell from the top.. "#montagnamagicaweb #slovenja #janezjiglic #alpinism #climbing